Wrapping the hive for winter is likely not necessary in my region. However everything on a farm boils down to energy management: less energy spent on keeping the cluster warm over winter translates into less energy consumption. This both extends the winter resources as well as lessens honey consumption. The latter point translates into more honey remaining in the spring, thus less need to refill the frames consumed over winter, thus allowing the bees to start storing excess honey sooner, thus increasing the harvest of the following year.
Total price tally (from amazon for universal considerations):
($17 for insulation + $11 for velcro) / 3 hive wraps can be made from these materials = $9.33 per wrap
First of all, I did not take very good pictures of the process so hopefully I can describe the process adequately with words. Secondly, I realize this post is late as I never got it written before I took my break in the fall. Third, as with all of my beekeeping posts [so far] I use 10 frame langstroth hives.
- String or something to measure (tailor’s tape, etc)
- Empty hive body (can be any size, we are just after the outer perimeter measurement)
- Rubbing alcohol and a rag for cleaning
- Reflective Bubble Insulation (Affiliate link) 16″ wide by 25 feet (enough for 3 hives of 2 deep supers each) ($16.25 at time of writing)
- Industrial Velcro, (Affiliate link) 2″ wide by 4 feet (enough for 2.75 hive wraps but see notes below) (I bought mine at walmart for $8 if I remember correctly but use that link as a reference to the exact product but save some money getting it locally) ($11)
- Use the string to measure the outside of your hive body
- My hive bodies are 19-7/8″x16-5/8″ for a total parameter of 73.5″
- My actual measurement was just over 74″
- I like to compare the measurement to the expected perimeter calculation based off of factory measurements for extra assurance but this is likely not necessary
- Add 2 inches to the parameter total to accommodate the overlap needed for velcro
- Cut the insulating material to length
- Clean the last two inches along opposing edges with alcohol and a rag to ensure adhesive sticks well
- Apply velcro to OPPOSING FACES ON OPPOSING ENDS so the velco will align when wrapped around the hive
- for clarity: imagine the insulating wrap is a piece of paper. Put on strip of velcro on the top of the front of the page. Put the opposing strip on the bottom of the back of the page.
- ALSO BE SURE TO use the two different types of velcro at either of the two ends the loop velcro can catch the fuzzy velcro
- Apply to hives!
Picture of the finished product:
Oops! On my original design I forgot to account for the overlap needed for the velcro to grab its opposing self so the insulation is cut to the exact perimeter of my supers. Which brings me to my next point.
This velcro is incredibly strong. After 2 months of use, the maximum of 1/4″ overlap I could barely stretch out of it has held the hive wraps in place without a single issue. I’m actually worried about being able to get the wrap off in the spring had I provided a full 2″ of overlap. After all, its advertised to hold fire extinguishers to the wall! I was also originally planning to reinforce the adhesion to the wrap by stitching the velcro in place. I decided not to for 2 reasons:
- The insulation is like unpoppable bubble wrap used as a packing material so stitching through it would have ruined the insulating air pocket under the strips of velcro
- After playing with the velcro, I decided it was unnecessary. Ok Ok…I actually dropped the velcro and almost destroyed the carpet trying to detach them from each other. If the adhesion wears out down the road, you all will be the first to know!
The insulating wrap I linked to has a extremely low insulation value: R=1.04 which is roughly equivalent to 1 inch of solid wood, increased to 4 if a 3/4″ gap is made. That gap could be achieved by putting blocks of wood under each of the 8 corners but the work required was not worth it for me. Regardless, this current set up serves me fine as I doubt I even need insulation. If your location calls for more insulation, I would use many many many layers of this or use the age old method of hay bales (or both in combination) or leave snow piled up around the hive with the entrances clear for ventilation.
I chose 16 inch insulation because overwintering, my hives are 2 deep supers: each 9-5/8″ tall or about 19″ total. The 3 inches of difference leaves the bottom entrances open for ventilation as well as the top entrance (although I keep that one plugged unless condensation becomes an issue). If you have a different hive configuration you will need to calculate or measure the required width and buy or cut the insulation to that figure.
Similarly, I use 10 frame deep supers so if your configuration is different you will need to calculate or measure the length requirement of the insulation. Don’t worry it is simple and discussed in steps 1-2 above.
The setting sun can hit these hives and reflect off in blinding fashion that makes it look like the hives are on fire. If your apiary has a line of sight to a roadway or bee thieves are a valid concern, you may want cover the outside with an additional layer of fabric or paint. Also this makes me wonder if the wrap is causing the hives to lose that warmth but I feel that keeping in heat is more valuable than capturing it in the winter (although backed by no calculations).
Also after seeing how ferociously strong the velcro is, next time I am going to use only a few inches at each corner and maybe on in the middle instead of lining the entire length of the end of the insulation.
Lastly, I may build a collar of sorts for the hives out of scrap wood to give the insulation the 3/4″ gap that quadruples its insulating rating. It would be a simple wood frame that sits down over the hive to be wrapped instead of the hive itself.
Honestly with the low insulation this provides, the benefit is likely more psychological to the beekeeper than anything else. As bees are best left undisturbed over winter, it is a hard time for a keeper who is uncomfortable with taking a hands-off approach. This at least provides a piece of mind that the keeper is doing everything in her or his power to help the bees survive!
One thought on “DIY: $9.33 Insulating Hive Wrap for wintering honeybees”
Daniel, don’t know if this will get to you or not, but…
I live in eastern Nebraska and have the same thoughts regarding insulating hives in our neck of the woods: that is isn’t necessary. Last year my hives survived the coldest winter we have seen in quite some time.
Nevertheless, I am more concerned with helping first year hives making it through their first winter than worrying about already hardened winter survivor hives.
One comment about the bubble wrap you’re using. I was looking to use the same thing but I didn’t like that both sides are reflective. So, I found a product out there that is white on one side and reflective on the other. This solves the issue of having a reflective outside.
Give that only 25% of hive heat loss is through the walls, I have never thought insulating a hive is necessary. However, insulating the cover is necessary to help stop the other 75% from going through the roof. I use 1″ rigid foam on top of my covers: under the tin covering.
I also have a solution to closing up the wrap without using Velcro.
Using a 1×2 the same length as the height as the wrap, staple the wrap on one end. on the other end I use another 1×2 and a 3″ wide piece of 1/4′ plywood. on this end the wrap sites between the 1×2 and the plywood which are lined up with the end of the wrap. The first end of the wrap is lined up with the front corner of the hive with the 1×2 facing out. Wrap the hive so that the other end has the plywood to the outside and the 1×4 goes past the first 1×2. Then simply use 2 screws to go through the plywood into the first 1×2. Simple and easy to remove and store.